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Phnom Penh
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Overveiw: |
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 Long ago called the “Pearl of Asia”, and known as one of the loveliest of French-built cities in Indochina. Phnom Penh, along with Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, are significant global and domestic tourist destinations for Cambodia. Founded in 1434, the city is noted for its beautiful and historical architecture and attractions. There are a number of surviving French colonial buildings, such as the Royal Palace, Phsar Thmei, and other French style buildings along the grand boulevards.Situated on the banks of the Tonlé Sap, Mekong and Bassac rivers, Phnom Penh is home to more than 2 million of Cambodia’s population ofover 14 million. It is the wealthiest and most populous city in Cambodia and is home to the country’s political hub. I haven’t been in Cambodia/Phnom Penh for over 10 years and coming back now it is truly amazing how far they have come in that relatively short amount of time. The last time I was there, cars were rare, not a single traffic light, no ATMs and 90% of the streets were still dirt, this in the capitol city with over a million people. Now, and some wouldn’t call it progress, there are massive traffic jams all over the city during all times of the day. But lets keep in mind where these people are coming from. Lets remember that the Cambodians have had it pretty rough for the last 100 years or more. Wars, political unrest, foreign occupation, genocide, its insane what Cambodia has endured. So it is nice to see the country and the people getting back on their feet a bit and if the cost is some traffic who am I to complain. |
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| By Air | |||||||||
Phnom Penh International Airport (PNH) is the largest airport in Cambodia and is located 7km west of the city. The new terminal is really nice and modern, it has a post office, bank, ATM, restaurants, duty-free shop, news stand, tourist help desk, and business center. Upon arrival you have three options to get to your hotel or other destination,
These Airlines fly into PNH;
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| By Road; | |||||||||
Phnom Penh Sorya Transport Capitol Tours, and GST Express operate bus service to/from the “station” at the southwest corner of the Central Market. Direct buses go to;
Book in advance, this can be done by your travel agent or hotel staff. Prices will run between 3 to 10$ depending on the type of Bus and the number of seats. |
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| By Boat; | |||||||||
| Boats connect Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and usually take 4-5 hours; tickets for foreigners cost US$25. Many, but not all, of these ferries offer the option of sitting on the roof, which makes for a much more of an adventure. Be prepared, these boats can break down so bring enough water, food and sun block to last you several hours, just in case.Fast boats leave every morning around 8:00AM from Chau Doc in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta and take 5 hours to reach Phnom Penh. The boats make the return journey the same day and leave Phnom Penh around 1:00PM arriving in Chau Doc in the early evening. |
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| Getting Around Phnom Penh | |||||||||
Seriously just rent a full time car and driver for the time your here, its not that expensive and will save you a bunch of grief. Just ask your hotel staff or travel agent and they will make the arrangements. If having a car and driver is not your style (which I fully understand) or beyond your means, here are some other ways to get around town. |
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| Motorbikes; are available for rent, however Phnom Penh traffic is chaotic and dangerous even by Asian standards, definitely playing with your life driving your own motorbike around town, no exaggeration! | |||||||||
| Motorbike-taxis are everywhere and will take you anywhere for a small fare. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel (50 US cents). | |||||||||
| Taxis Most taxis do not have meters, and fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary, due to fluctuating fuel prices. Best bet is to ask hotel/guesthouse staff for assistance. There are a few metered-taxi companies emerging in Phnom Penh. They are very reasonably priced and in high demand. Be prepared to wait for their service. | |||||||||
| Tuk-tuks are a vehicle consisting of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheaper than taxis and offer a cool way to experience the city. Their clientele is almost exclusively tourists, and most drivers in tourist areas speak some English. |  |
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Cambodian Tuk Tuk’s look a bit different then their Thai cousins |
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Cyclos bicycle-rickshaws is what these really are. They are becoming less and less common in the city, but are still popular with locals and foreigners alike. |
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| Important Information; | |||||||||
| Useful Numbers | |||||||||
| Fire (24hr)• Call from Stationary Telephone……………………………………….. 118• Toul Sleng Fire Department………………………………… 023 723 555Police (24hr)• Call from Stationary Telephones……………………………………… 117
• S.O.S Police …………………………….. 023366 841 or 023 720 235 • Traffic Police…………………………………………………..023 722 067 Ambulance & Hospitals (24hr) • Ambulance (S.A.M.U)………………………………………………….119 • Call from Stationary Telephones………………………… 023 724 891 • Blood Transfusion Center…………………………………. 023 215 949 • Airport Rescue coordination center……………………. 023 890 192 Auto Breakdown & Towing (24hr) • Emerald Garage………………………………………………..012 977 011 • Mittapheap Garage…………………………………………. 012865 559 • SETI Garage……………………………………………………012 877 011 • Swift Towing………………………………………………….012 859 686 Medical (24hr) • Bangkok Hospital ……………………….. 012 764848 / 011 864 546 • International SOS Medical………………………………… 023 216 911 • Ly Srey Vyna MD…………………………………………… 012 990 988 • Naga Clinic…………………………………………………….011 811 175 • Naga Pharmacy Center……………………………………. 023 212 324 • Pharmacie De La Gar…………………………………….. 012 805 908 • Raffles Medical Center…………………………………….. 023 218 393 • Tropical & Travellers Medical Clinic…………………… 012 898 981 Visas / Extension • Passport office for foreigners (24hr)……………………. 012 854 874 • Immigration office (24hr)………………………………….. 012 826 025 Embassies in Phnom Penh Click here for a full list of Embassies and contact information. |
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| Hospitals | |||||||||
Make damn sure that any doctor you deal with has a Western medical degree. If not, get out of there: local training is poor, and treatment is sometimes fatal. The medical standard of the local hospitals can be very basic as well. This also applies to Calmette Hospital – the number one hospital in Phnom Penh. If you need to see a doctor it is recommended you go to one of the international clinics. They can also arrange transfer to a hospital in Thailand if necessary.
IMHO: Health care here is no joke, spend the extra money! |
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| Stay Safe; | |||||||||
| When I first came here in ’99 I was definitely concerned about my safety, but after a few hours I figured out that there were no problems here. I never felt threatened or intimidated or in danger in away, it was a great place to be, exciting and fun, exotic and mysterious, awesome, one of the best travel experience of my life. But this time was different, I had two very scary run ins with locals, one was at a club and some well dressed (not well dressed more like a bad 80′s Miami pimp) Cambodians and the other was walking around the Russian market where a group of young men tried to pick a fight with me right there on the main road. I later found out that they were Vietnamese. Those were the only two, direct, in my face confrontations that I had but there were many other “uncomfortable” moments as well. I also found that many of the Cambodian males were just out right rude, arrogant little shits. All this really came as a shock due to the fact that the 1st time I went there everyone and I mean everyone was so nice and mellow and helpful. It really got me down even to the point of I don’t know if I would ever go back to Cambodia.Some reports are saying that you should be safer now then back in ’99, but I don’t know about that, the whole vibe of Phnom Penh is different now. Coming here in 2010 is how I thought it might be in ’99. Bottom line, ’99 exciting, mellow and fun, 2010 exciting but for all the wrong reason and fun still but not as much. So with that here are some safety tip I think people should know about. | |||||||||
| Kids of the wealthy; Stay away from the places that are popular with the notorious local “elite” youth (and their minders) who carry firearms and other weapons, and who are allowed to pass through so-called “security” checks without being searched. These little #$^##@’s are true pricks (as I found out 1st hand) and in Cambodia there is no real rule of law, money and influence will win out every time.Sober Drivers; This might be a no brainer but you will find that a larger number of the tuk tuk and mototaxi drivers are flat out wasted. Check before you jump on or jump into a tuk tuk or mototaxi.Armed robbery: Phnom Penh still has more bad guys with guns than most Asian cities. Most commonly Cambodians are victimized for their cell phones or motorbikes. Phnom Penh’s Expats reports an increase of armed robberies of foreigners, mostly women, involving motorbikes with young men who carry knives or guns. Avoid walking in quiet areas at night, try to find a dependable tuk-tuk driver, and don’t carry unnecessary valuables or cash. Bag snatching: The Phnom Penh Post reports, and many expats state as well, a large upsurge in this crime, both in broad daylight and at night; in crowded streets and deserted ones alike. The victims are almost entirely Western and Khmer women riding in tuk tuks or on motorbikes (either as passengers or drivers). Sometimes these incidents are violent, with women dragged off moving motorbikes and thrown to the road. When targeting pedestrians, thieves grab bags, or snatch mobile phones and purses out of hands. If you must carry a bag, when using a mototaxi put it between you and the driver. In tuk-tuks put it under your seat. Apart from their appalling road safety record, motorbikes do not allow you to protect your bag as well as you can in a four-wheel vehicle (rent a car and driver guys, it is better in the long run). Bag-snatching happens all over Phnom Penh, including outside popular expat hang-outs. Some mototaxi drivers are known to be in league with the thieves. Traffic, traffic and more traffic; By far the greatest danger in Phnom Penh is none of the above: it is getting hit by a motorbike, or thrown off one, in the city’s unbearable traffic. Cambodia has arguably the worst drivers in Asia. Although traffic tends to be slower than Bangkok’s and less dense than Saigon’s, it is literally all over the road: two streams going in each direction at any one time; plus endless switching from one stream to the other. Motorbike taxis, or riding your own motorbike, instead of tuk tuks, will save you a few dollars a week. However an airlift to a Bangkok hospital will quickly make that seem like a false economy. Tuk Tuks, however, can often give a false sense of security. They are usually very cheap motorbikes with substandard brakes pulling incredibly high loads, and if they need to stop quickly, it will often not be possible. Minimise the risk by choosing sober drivers, vehicles in good condition, and not overloading. Crossing the road in this city requires constant 360 degree vigilance.
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| Eating and Sleeping | |||||||||
| Hotels | |||||||||
| More and more accommodations are going up in Phnom Penh everyday so you have a wide range of locations and prices to choose from. You can have your choice of very basic backpacker dives (5-20$), some nice mid range places (20-75$) and some really extravagant hotels with outrages prices to match. | |||||||||
| Hotels that I’ve stayed at before; | |||||||||
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| For more guesthouse, hotel information Click Here. | |||||||||
| Restaurants | |||||||||
| I am always pleasantly surprised with the restaurants in Phnom Penh, as I’m not a big fan of SE Asian food it was great to find a wide range of cuisine. Because of the large ex-pat community from all over the world, you can find French food, Korean food pretty much anything. And yes even Cambodian food is readily available. |  |
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You can find freshly baked baguettes all over Phnom Penh a left over from the old French colonial days. |
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| Here are some of the restaurants I’ve eaten at; | |||||||||
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| For more information on restaurants Click Here | |||||||||
Day Time; |
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| There are some amazing sites to see and things to do in and around Phnom Penh. The first two listed below can be a bit shocking and very serious places to visit. If your squeamish or soft heart, both could be hard to take. | |||||||||
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison), Street 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, 855-23-300-698. A school converted into Cambodia’s most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing Fields; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia’s horrific recent past. The infamous “skull map” has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs of people dying. |
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The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, About 17 km south of Phnom Penh, this is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls – the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed, with ominous scraps of clothing still to be found here and there. It is a serene yet somber place. Regularly throughout the day, a small museum screens a documentary with gruesome video images of human remains that were unearthed when the mass graves were found in 1979. Recommended to visit after learning more about the Khmer Rouge terror at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, however, like the Genocide Museum, this place is not for the squeamish. As millions were killed during the traumatic genocidal regime of Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge, as a sign of respect – it would be good to wear respectable clothing such as long pants and no sleeveless shirts or tops. Flowers and incense can be bought in front of the stupa. |
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| Not everything here is as serious as the places above. | |||||||||
The Royal Palace. 7:30am-11:00 & 2:30pm-5:00pm. Including the two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early in the day before it gets too hot. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the Palace buildings. You’re expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can rent sarongs and oversized T-shirts for 1,000 Riel (plus $1 deposit) at the entrance. |
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The National Museum of Cambodia, Street 13, Sangkat Chey Chumneas, (opposite the Royal Palace), 23 211753, 08:00-17:00 daily, last admission 16.30. Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia’s “golden age” of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the center. A main attraction is the statue of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219) in mediation pose; other exhibits worth seeing include graceful statues of Hindu gods, ancient tablets inscribed in Sanskrit and Old Khmer, and artifacts from a prehistoric burial site. Unfortunately, no photos may be taken inside the museum, although photography is allowed in the central courtyard upon payment of a small fee (cameras: US$1, video cameras: US$3). In the middle of the courtyard is the original statue of the “Leper King” (actually Yama, the Hindu god of death) from the Terrace of the Leper King in Angkor Archaeological Park. The pleasant little park in front of the Museum is the site of the annual Royal Plough Ceremony, at which the success or otherwise of the coming harvest is determined. |
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| Central Market (in Cambodian called Psar Thmei – “New Market”) is a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well set out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. As of August 2009, two arms of the building were undergoing renovations and one more was largely empty. However, the central dome and the last arm were open and busy, as were the temporary markets around them. | |||||||||
| Russian Market (Cambodian “Psar Toul Tom Poung” – it gained the “Russian Market” moniker following the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s, but many mototaxi are not familiar with the name) offers the opportunity to buy real designer clothes at a huge discount price. A lot of the factories for Levi’s, CK, Ralph Lauren and many other brands are in Phnom Penh, however a lot of the clothes sold here are deemed unfit to be shipped abroad due to very small fault in the clothing which a majority of people wouldn’t even notice, therefore they are sold at the Russian market. You can also purchase fake Swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It also has the best ice coffee in the city. Russian Market is located away from normal tourist areas, but mototaxi drivers who cater to tourists will know it. | |||||||||
favorite place, due to all the high brow NGO types that hang out there. Sorry but these guys idiots. With that said they do have good food, the best in my opinion is breakfast, great portions, good coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. Drinking your coffee at a table on the rail overlooking Sisowath Quay and the river, is a great way to start the day.
backpacker bar/restaurants with live music to the techno pop disco.
What ever your looking for you should be able to find here.Again I have to warn against going to the clubs popular by the young
wealthy Cambodians, it will only end badly. This is not a
place to be stumbling drunk in dark allies. Be careful, stick
to the spots where you see ex-pats or other visitors, and it should
all be good.
- 69 Bar , Popular dance orientated hostess bar, bar
top and balcony dancing.
- Barbados, south of Street 104 near the river, is a
hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.
- Blue Cat, just off the riverside on street 110,
classy bar, friendly staff, fun popular place with free pool and
a night club upstairs. cheap cocktails.
- Caress Bar is where the Tonle Sap, Mekong and Tonle
Basac rivers meet each other. Cruise the Mekong with style.
- DV8 Bar on Street 148 (near the riverfront) is
a popular hostess bar with a good selection of spirits and
company.
- Elephant Bar, Raffles Le Royal. The classy bar at the
classiest hotel in town, with frescos on the ceiling and live
piano in the evenings. Try the Femme Fatale, a mix of
cognac and champagne dreamed up for Jacqui Kennedy in 1967.
Expensive.
- Equinox on Street 278 (near Street 51) is one
of the best live music venues in town with weekly
concerts from locals and expat bands. It’s also a two-stories
cocktail bar featuring monthly art exhibitions by local
and international artists, gaming room with a pool table and the
unique bonzini foosball table of Phnom Penh, cool tunes, good
food. Increasingly popular with expats. Happy hours 5pm-8pm.
- FCC and Guesthouse on Sisowath Quay, overlooking the
river. Excellent place to meet professionals and travelling
people. Happy hour 5-7PM.
- Golden Vine on street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge.
Hostess bar with 8 Ball table.
- Green Vespa at 95 Sisowath Quay (near street 102).
Open from 6AM – late. Friendly pub and great single malt
collection.
- Heart of Darkness has long been the most infamous
nightclub in Phnom Penh, closed in August 2005 after a patron
was shot to death but is now back in business. Some seating is
reserved for well-heeled (gangster elite) Phnom Penh local
youth, so move if you are asked. While certainly not the safest
place in the world, more nights go by without incident than not.
A number of expats avoid it now, however. Saturday nights are
always packed.
- Liquid #3B street 278 next door to Equinox. With its
polished concrete, gun-metal grey floor, chocolate leather
seats, and fabulously backlit bar (serving some of the best and
most inventive cocktails in town), plus one of the only genuine
slate pool tables in town, Liquid has been described as a
“refreshing new entry into the Phnom Penh Bar Scene and will no
doubt do well with Expats and Travelers”. As much a mid-week bar
as a weekend bar, Liquid is open 8AM til late everyday.
- Martini Pub & Disco on Street 95 (one block off
Monivong Blvd, across from the Total Gas Station) is an
infamous girlie bar. Two full bars, food US$2-6, burgers &
fries, pizza, Asian dishes, gaming room, disco, outdoor
big-screen showing movies or sports. There some copycat Martini
bars in other places like Sihanoukeville and Siem Reap, but this
is the original. A place for single men and loose ladies.
- Monsoon Wine Bar on Street 104 is an intimate, cosy
wine bar. Try a glass of wine from the well-chosen international
wine list or nibble on something from the small but excellent
Pakistani menu. Chilled vibe, cool tunes, friendly service.
- OneZeroFour Bar on Street 104 is a popular low-key
hostess bar. The bar has a good range of single malt whiskeys.
- One3Six Bar Located on Street 136. A popular hostess
bar.Great range of drinks plus they keep their 42 Below and Grey
Goose Vodka in the freezer, so the shots are real smooth.
- Pit Stop on Street 51 is a popular hostess bar.
- Rubies on Street 240 is a wine bar favoured by young
ex-pats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere
on a weekend night.
- Sharky’s Bar & Restaurant, #126 Street 130, Phnom
Penh Since its opening in 1995, Sharky’s has been rocking &
rolling. Located upstairs on the first floor above street level,
Sharky’s has a large space, huge center bar, outside balcony,
and plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand
“Shockeee Bah”. It’s about three 1/2 blocks from the “Psar Thmei”
(new market).
- Sugar Shack on Sothearos (the street in front of the
National Museum and Palace) is a classy little hostess bar
featuring a nice selection of wines, champagnes and single
malts.
- UpDownbar, Located on Street 136, across the famous
136 bar. Relaxed atmosphere, with a bar upstairs and groundfloor.
- VooDoo Lounge on Street 51 near street 108 is a new
bar with a great range of drinks, nice decor, air-con, happy
hostesses, and a pool table. Two other hostess bars nearby.
- Walkabout on Street 51 has food and good pool tables.
Many freelance girls congregate here. Popular after hours bar,
also has rooms available. Open 24 hours.
- Zanzibar on Street 104 is high energy hostess bar
with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, that’s very
popular among expats.
- Zapata Bar on Street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge is a
stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no
pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.
As you can see there are a few “hostess” bars listed, it is what it is and we’re not one to judge shit, but if you partake, condom up!! Last estimate was 13% HIV among female working ladies in Cambodia.
